So here it is, my Seward Highway favorites list. I've been meaning to defend the Seward Highway for sometime now. Years ago the climbing magazine Rock and Ice rated it as one of the worst known rock climbing areas in the United States. So below I've listed out areas that I have found to be more than acceptable as destinations for after work training sessions, or hell maybe even the short weekends. Some of these areas have served us locals for over 20 years now. Believe it or not you can actually train for sport and dry tool climbing on the Seward Highway. One just has to think outside the plastic box. I do hope this serves someone.
Things to consider when venturing out onto these routes is the age and look of the bolts, how chosy the over head rock is, and the direction of the wind. The Seward Highway has a huge SE flow and it makes sense to escape this in early and late season, when the temperatures are colder than mid summer. Though even in mid summer the wind can be a little too much. Maybe it's my age and appreciation for "good" wind from paragliding, who knows.
Anyhow, below I've listed notes and such pertaining to my favorite areas and the routes there of, starting from Pivot Point and ending at the Portage Valley area climbs. Using this list with a guidebook is what I would expect the reader to do, since this list is not meant to go into any real descriptive depth. Take care and climb safe!
Assumptions
All areas catch the SE wind unless mentioned otherwise.
All areas are next to the highway unless mentioned otherwise.
A N wind is generally a good thing.
This page is the personal opinion of a 20 year Seward Highway local and may not mean shit to you, that's your thing.
Pivot Point
Notes
This area is out of the SE wind.
This area is away from the highway.
It's best to wait for spring time to pass.
The best climbing is on the main formation.
This area is an excellent bouldering area for power training.
Linking your day into the Goats Head area is a good workout.
Linking your day into the Dino Head area is a kickass workout.
Worthy (Left to Right)
Burnt Tree Traverse - v8 see video
HU - v7 (seam left of Dangle and Whack, single bolt for TR)
Dangle and Whack - 5.12d
Pivot Point - 5.10a
Sat Nam - 5.13a
Crank Case Traverse - v5
Misc eliminate Bouldering - hard as you want see video
Classic Crack
Notes
This area is out of the SE wind.
Beware, there's a fair amount of loose rock here.
Worthy (Left to Right)
Cosmic Connection - 5.12a
Arch Cracks - 5.9
Classic Crack - 5.8
Ditch Weed - 5.11c
Boy Scout
Notes
This area is out of the SE wind.
This area is away from the highway.
This area has good history.
Beware of ninja squirrels.
Worthy
Solo around for head training or setup a TR for the friends.
Resolution Bluff
Notes
The SE wind is tolerable here.
A healthy hike leads to one of the best crags away from the highway, sporting great views and good climbing.
This area can be hot during a mid summer day.
There's a rad grassy ledge for fun in the sun...
A rad place for friends.
Worthy (Left to Right)
Tweakin' The Genie - 5.10a
Direct Genie - 5.10a
Calling Out - 5.11b
Cookin' The Captain - 5.10c (best route here)
Twinkle Toes Area
Notes
Good historic area with one good climb.
There's a 5.13c just left of the main route.
Worthy
Twinkle Toes 5.10c
Bermuda Triangle
Notes
This area is out of the SE wind.
All the routes are about the same in quality.
Worthy (Left to Right)
Fly By Night - 5.10b
Bermuda Triangle - 5.11c/d
Riot In Ephesis - 5.11a
Stumper - 5.11b/c
Out Of Africa - 5.10b
Genuflect - 5.10b
Planet X - 5.10d
Squeeze-In 5.9
Pull The Wool - 5.11a
Rap Not - 5.9
SunShine Ridge Area
Notes
The route Sun Shine Ridge is a super mellow solo.
Thrombosis is a rad climb.
Worthy (Left to Right)
Thrombosis - 5.10b (out of the SE wind)
Sun Shine Ridge - 5.8
Morning Star Gully
Notes
Pick a day when there's a North wind.
This area is away from the highway.
All the routes are about the same in quality.
Worthy (Left to Right)
Have You Seen Lucky - 5.11a
Give Thanks - 5.11a
Absolute-ly - 5.11c
Creation Science - 5.11a
Sweet Relief - 5.10c/d
Gym Certified - 5.10c/d
Revolt Against Maturity - 5.10b
Sign Of Jonah - 5.10c
NorthWest Passage
Notes
Pick a day with light SE winds, to keep the bugs away.
This area is away from the highway.
Stay on the trail.
All the routes are about the same in quality.
Worthy (Left to Right)
Northwest Passage - 5.10b
U-Reek-A - 5.10b
Snizzler's Passage - 5.10a
Klondike - 5.9
vanilla ice - 5.10a/b (interesting route by the road)
Sky Pilot
Notes
A concentration of hard routes.
Inspect the bolts! Again, Inspect the bolts!
Worthy (Left to Right)
Catalyst - 5.12c/d
Herbalistic Vision - 5.12c/d
20/20 - 5.12c
Present Tense - 5.12a/b (a hold broke reducing this to easy 5.12)
Upper Sky Pilot
Notes
This area is away from the highway.
Worthy (Left to Right)
Face It - 5.10c
See It - 5.10c
Goats Head Soup
Notes
This area is out of the SE wind.
This area is kind of away from the highway.
Watch out for loose rock!
All the routes are about the same in quality.
Worthy (Left to Right)
Sly - 5.10b
No Whiners - 5.10a
Shiner - 5.10b/c
No Finer - 5.10b/c
Done Dirt Cheap 5.10c/d
Great Lobster Dispute - 5.10a
Goats Head Soup - 5.10b
Dino Head
Notes
Windy but the best on the highway. Pick your days, a N wind is good, a SE wind is bad, and calm is best.
This area is away from the highway.
Rad views and lots of goat shit!
There's a rad grassy ledge for fun in the sun...
Link your pivot bouldering session into this area for an awesome day out.
Worthy (Left to Right)
This is the circuit.
Dino Who - 5.11d
Dino Later - 5.11b
Suffering Simians - 5.10c
What's Up Dino - 5.11a
Dino's Stubble Trouble - 5.10c/d (best 5.10 on the highway IMHO)
Amazing Dino - 5.12a (best 5.12a on the highway IMHO)
New Wave Dino - 5.11d
Best Deal In Town - 5.9
Shriek Of The Mutilated
Notes
Watch out for sharp rock.
Watch out for sharp rock.
Worthy
Shriek Of The Mutilated - 5.12b (one of the best 5.12b routes on the highway IMHO)
Mesquito Ledge
Notes
This area is out of the SE wind.
This area is away from the highway.
Lots of bugs, a little wind is good.
Sunny days are greasy.
Worthy (Left to Right)
Promised Land - 5.10
Code Red Left - 5.10
Code Red - 5.10c/d
Portage
Notes
This area is out of the SE wind.
This area is away from the highway.
This area has history.
Stay out of Middle Glacier Canyon unless you know the area, even then...
Pick a day with a little bit of overcast and a little bit of wind to keep the bugs away.
Worthy
All the routes in Byron are good. These are the goods...
The Wedge
Notes
This area is out of the SE wind.
This area is away from the highway.
Mid summer is best, as it's an alpine environment.
Great approach.
Worthy
All the routes at the Wedge are good. These are the goods...